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ABOUT STYLESIGHT runway
Runways are a hotbed of new ideas. Stay in the loop with Stylesight’s Daily Chronicles: up-to-the-minute collection reviews; emerging trends, colors, and must-haves; and exclusive glimpses at who, what, where and wear at Fashion Weeks around the world.
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DKNY - Cruise/Resort 2014
GLAM SQUAD
New York: DKNY's Resort collection was a study in contrasts. Sporty elements including luxe variations on bomber jackets, track pants, basketball jerseys and baseball caps were layered with sharp blazers, jeweled sweatshirts, sequined pencil skirts and sheer lace maxis. It was a reflection of modern street style looks, where accessorizing a cocktail dress with sneakers or throwing a Letterman jacket
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Akris - Cruise/Resort 2014
QUOTIDIAN CHIC
New York: The Akris resort collection featured the kind of effortless sartorialism associated with refined French fashion icons such as Ines de la Fressange and Emmanuelle Alt: Impeccably tailored pants, sheer blouses, relaxed car coats, polished blazers and loosely tied silk scarves. A few painterly prints, a touch of sparkly embroidery and vibrant, saturated jewel tones added pep to
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Oscar de la Renta - Cruise/Resort 2014
LADY IN WAITING
New York: Oscar de la Renta presented a 50s fantasy for Resort, complete with peplum tops, A-line frocks, neat little bed jackets and costume jewels. Colorful embroideries were worked over black-and-white plaids on chic separates and day dresses. Exquisite hand-crocheted pieces such as a tunic in burgundy-and-ivory floral was seen worn over a slim skirt. Cocktail and evening dresses
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Christian Dior - Cruise/Resort 2014
BRAND NEW LOOK
Monaco: Raf Simons is a master at collections that make you take notice. His fresh perspective on clothes offers something utterly original at every turn, and working within the confines of the Christian Dior brand has only served to encourage a new sense of freedom. For Resort, it was all about marrying classic Dior notes—rounded silhouettes, bustier dresses,
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Bottega Veneta - Cruise/Resort 2014
ARTISTIC LICENSE
New York: Craftsmanship is Tomas Maier's MO. This season his exacting eye explored the artist's canvas, complete with daubs of paint and Rorschach prints. Artistically placed patchwork piecing and delicate fringe decorated smock tops and shift dresses, while hand-woven macramé tops were cropped short and unfinished. The footwear was unique: raffia for the shoes had been bathed in oil and water in order
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Chanel - Cruise/Resort 2014
CREATIVE RECREATION
Singapore: Chanel Cruise is a relaxed affair, a chance for Karl Lagerfeld to play with sportif styling, early '20s Deauville, tomboy silhouettes and poolside ensembles. Lagerfeld contrasted cricket whites, tribal-knit sweatpants and wide-leg jeans with lashings of pearls, crystal shoulder pieces and delicate embroidery. Dotted in between casual and couture were classic Coco highlights including neat bouclé tailoring, two-tone pumps
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Runway Flash – Fold Hold
Soft, bendable materials and folded or rolled styling make new oversized clutches aesthetically fresh and easy to carry. Some styles shown for F/W 13 are simply bent in half, while openings for wrists to rest in and strapped scroll silhouettes thoughtfully update the item. – Whitney Kessler
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Runway Flash – The Stocking Boot
Stocking boot uppers emerge on F/W 13 Paris runways. Thigh-high ultraviolet silk is piercing and luxurious while neutral taupe leather is minimalist and chic. Referencing the 1940s, black satin displays pastel embroidered motifs and transparent peep toes give nod to Film Noir styling. All looks climb over the knee for a seamless finish, hiding under skirt hemlines. – Savannah Todd
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Runway Flash – Little Lamb
The flat, curly fur called Astrakhan (also known as Mongolian lamb, Persian lamb or broadtail) is showing up all over Paris runways for F/W 13, used for coats, separates, dresses or as trim. While black or brown are traditional for this pelt (and are valid this season), the newest versions — whether real or fake — are dyed pearly grey,
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Moncler Gamme Rouge
PAGING DR. ZHIVAGO
Paris: Creative director Giambattista Valli created a winter wonderland for Moncler Gamme Rouge's fall show, complete with a snow-covered runway and live Siberian huskies. In a season that was all about coats, Valli showed some of the most notable versions. He was certainly not stingy with the fur, offering styles that mixed three or four different pelts. There
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Vionnet - F/W 2013
WRAP ARTIST
Paris: Goga Ashkenazi’s work for Vionnet follows the formula of the house founder without sacrificing modern updates, which for F/W 13 meant futurism by way of the Eighties. Wrapping, folding and contrast linings were the primary techniques, resulting in black folded front jackets with peekaboo swatches of mint, wrap skirts with dimensional flaps and even fur sheath dresses patchworked
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Miu Miu - F/W 2013
INFALLIBLE INSTINCT
Paris: Fashion editors began trying to decipher Miuccia Prada's brilliantly confounding Miu Miu collection as soon as the last model left the runway. Was it Hansel and Gretel meets utilitarian chic, or Pippi Longstocking plus sport? The designer herself refused to name a specific inspiration, stating, "I didn't have time to analyze it. It's just instinct and what you
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Detail of the Day — Louis Vuitton - F/W 2013
Marc Jacobs’ boudoir-inspired collection for Louis Vuitton F/W 13 was a sensuous combination of menswear patterns and silhouettes offset by feminine details. Here, the masculine lines of a woolen plaid coat were softened by densely packed sequins at the hem — creating an alluring ombré effect. — Marissa Stuart
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Louis Vuitton - F/W 2013
BOUDIOR SECRETS
Paris: Following last season’s boldly geometric mod presentation, Marc Jacobs decided to take a far quieter approach at Louis Vuitton with looks reminiscent of the boudoir-influenced pieces he showed for his own collection in New York. Low-key glamour and a secretive nature dominated in Paris, the models clad in silky camisole dresses, pajama sets and velvet dressing gowns, some
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Runway Flash – Future Folklore
Paris designers imagine a kind of futuristic folklore, where Pop fairytales like Disney characters and film stills mash-up with ethnic motifs and religious symbols. Trend-right items such as luxe sweatshirts and oversized coats keep it all wearable and desirable. – Sharon Graubard
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