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ABOUT STYLESIGHT runway
Runways are a hotbed of new ideas. Stay in the loop with Stylesight’s Daily Chronicles: up-to-the-minute collection reviews; emerging trends, colors, and must-haves; and exclusive glimpses at who, what, where and wear at Fashion Weeks around the world.
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Balmain - F/W 2013
HAUTE HAREM
Paris: Olivier Rousteing's latest collection for Balmain delivered the expected dose of exaggerated proportions, intricate embellishments, and serious glamour. He riffed on ideas that he had proposed in previous seasons, such as S/S 13's broad shoulders and Pre-Fall's harem pants. The elegant drapery was used for more than just the pants, however. It also appeared for short, tulip-shaped skirts
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Ann Demeulemeester - F/W 2013
A ROMANCE WITH BACKBONE
Paris: Ann Demeulemeester has indulged in more and more romanticism over the past few seasons, finding softer silhouettes and even a vintage-influenced femininity. For F/W 13 the looks were uniformly floor-grazing, and cotton or sheer chiffon nightshirt dresses were tempered with plenty of backbone via excellent slim cut military coats, lace-up combat boots and stiff, exaggerated leather
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H&M - F/W 2013
BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY
Paris: It’s been eight years since H&M presented a catwalk show created by their own in-house design team, and not by guest designers. H&M put up an elaborate show and invited the press to the Musée Rodin, which was was divided into 15 different rooms. There was live music and champagne as the guests mingled from hallway to living
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Carven - F/W 2013
THE LADY IN THE HEADLIGHTS
Paris: Fuzzy textures crafted from bouclé and mohair are very popular on the runway this month and Fall may be the most abundantly pastel season yet. Creative director Guillaume Henry chose to indulge in both, as well as must-have statement blanket coats and the recently revived Mary Jane, for his F/W 13 Carven presentation; each concept
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Rue du Mail - F/W 2013
MIDNIGHT IN THE GARDEN
Paris: For her latest Rue du Mail collection, Martine Sitbon presented darkly romantic looks in a moody palette of black, navy, purple, and rich browns. Large fabric appliqués depicted orchids and were placed on the bodices of sheaths, woven tops, and boxy jackets. The image of the orchid also appeared for jacquard separates. The zig-zag pattern that
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Mugler - F/W 2013
SHE'S A LADY
Paris: Nicola Formichetti may never fully shake his associations with Lady Gaga, but this season it seemed the designer shifted away from the theatrical, outlandish creations that he procured for her, as well as from the overtly sexy vibe he has conjured during his time at the helm of Mugler. Like many other designers this season, Formichetti made
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Felipe Oliveira Baptista - F/W 2013
THE FUTURE OF MINIMALISM
Paris: With clean, angular lines and techy materials, Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista presented his futuristic take on minimalism for fall. Shoulders were the focal point, with dropped seams or extended shoulders helping to create the architectural silhouettes. Double-faced wool crepe, bonded leather, and an iridescent coated organza facilitated the shapes. Engineered knits also made an appearance
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Gareth Pugh - F/W 2013
MAD VOLUME-IST
Paris: Gothic inspirations never go away for Gareth Pugh and what is more classically creepy than a mad-scientist toiling away in an isolated, wintery retreat? Switching gears from last season’s modified stab at romanticism Pugh was back to austere, tailored drama with elongated white lab coats edged in a stark branch print layered over full a-line gowns—one part twisted
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Detail of the Day — Dries Van Noten - F/W 2013
Dries Van Noten's F/W 13 collection was a harmonious combination of romantic frocks and tailored menswear, expertly intertwined into covetable separates that made a graceful transition from day to night. A sharply tailored pencil skirt got a luxe touch from dainty feathers and carefully placed crystal embellishments. — Marissa Stuart
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Runway Flash – Make ‘Em Matte - F/W 2013
Emerging at key shows in multiple cities, matte black eyewear frames look new. Styles range from thick plastic cat eye or round sunglasses to Simone Rocha’s more directional, knitted nerd specs. – Whitney Kessler
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Runway Flash – Fresh Coat - F/W 2013
The "it" coat has replaced the "it" bag as the fashion object of desire. For F/W 13 in Paris, some of the best toppers are tailored woolen styles. While shapes are relatively classic — double-breasted and to the knee or below — specialness comes from gentle color, widened lapels, soft shoulders, blanket stripes or placed embroideries. – Sharon Graubard
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Christophe Lemaire - F/W 2013
CHIC RIGHT NOW
Paris: As the creative director at Hermés, Christophe Lemaire knows luxury and for his own collection he approaches the concept with a quiet confidence resulting in lasting and lovely foundation pieces. Infused with the sort of military equestrian references common for Hermés, Lemaire’s F/W 13 season was far more understated and gained significant momentum with refined, tapered trousers,
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Rochas - F/W 2013
SOLEMN AFFLUENCE
Paris: Marco Zanini’s latest for Rochas expanded on some of the silhouettes from his Spring collection, maintaining the big, voluminous skirts but adapting them for day with a retro, elite-housewife interpretation. Where last season was light and somewhat sporty, as if designed for a glamorous game of tennis, Fall was covered up and proper with ribbed knit cardigans and
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Dries Van Noten - F/W 2013
HEAVEN, I’M IN HEAVEN
Paris: For F/W 13, Dries Van Noten returned to the magnificent Hotel de Ville, where the models glided softly along the catwalk to Irving Berlin’s Cheek to Cheek. “It’s about ballroom dancing, it’s a happy collection,” said Dries, post show. “It’s about layering, boudoir dressing and embellishment.” Dries continued his play with gender, nonchalantly layering menswear suits
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Julien David - F/W 2013
INBETWEENERS
Paris: Julien David’s work is always a breath of fresh air on the Paris schedule, his youthful, street-influenced shows something of an anomaly in the high-fashion capital of the world. Last season it was an athletic meets schoolgirl collection full of conversational dinosaur prints and mesh basketball jerseys, but for Fall David’s muse graduated and entered professional life. Cropped jacquard
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