Ann Demeulemeester -

DARK POETRY Paris: In the wake of Ann Demeulemeester’s sudden departure from her namesake line earlier this year, former menswear designer Sébastien Meunier made sure to honor the core DNA of the beloved Belgian fashion house with his debut collection. Androgyny was a key concept, with twisting and layering creating loose, drapey silhouettes, which were made even more dramatic by the ...
Read more >


Carven -

FRESH FEMININITY PARIS:  A distinct ‘60s vibe was felt in Carven’s collection by way of tailored mini silhouettes and surreal hand motifs, while the restrained placement of crystals at the neck and pockets created a modern sense of femininity. — Marissa Stuart Key Items:  Tailored skirt suits / Belted utility coats / Zippered column coats / Slim shifts / A-line minis / ...
Read more >


Balenciaga -

TEXTURE + SCULPTURE Paris: A clean-edged sport aesthetic ran through the collection that Alexander Wang crafted for Balenciaga. Every piece was zippered in one way or another, from shoulders to pants and pockets, while rounded shoulders complimented the silhouette. To conclude this futuristic collection, Wang sent out a group of sculptured androgynous suits and sweaters. – Lizzy Bowring Key Items: Zippered coats ...
Read more >


Vionnet -

NATURE'S ARCHITECT Paris: Goga Ashkenazi cited both architecture and the natural world as directions for Fall. The themes were more than evident in this elaborately staged collection of silhouette cut Russian felt dresses, floral-stamped bustiers and grass-green knits. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Bustier dresses / Aran sweaters / Bias cut gowns / Jumpsuits / Pleated silk skirts / Molded jackets and coats Color: ...
Read more >


Undercover -

ROYAL TREATMENT Paris: Jun Takahashi took on symbols of aristocracy, putting his innovative spin on royal crests, dramatic sashes and even braided hair crowns, while simultaneously producing stellar menswear pieces and classic outerwear. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Ruffled trousers / Fur tops / Double-breasted overcoats / Trouser suits / Draped trench coats / Elongated moto jackets / Robe coats Color: Canary yellow / ...
Read more >


Gareth Pugh -

ALL WOUND-UP Paris: Avant-garde designer Gareth Pugh sent forth a collection painted winter white with shocks of metallic silver interspersed throughout, setting an ethereal tone. An oversized wind-up gear made a statement attached to a model's back giving a toy-like illusion. The designer created a dynamic juxtaposition between soft and rigid forms with sharp contrasts in silhouette, materials and extreme draping. – Deirdre ...
Read more >


Rochas -

BEJEWELED Paris: The Fall 2014 catwalk collection from Rochas saw Alessandro Dell'Acqua showcase a lineup of stunning designs, including jeweled jackets, coats, cocktail dresses and rhinestone encrusted evening gowns. Even the brightly colored gloves gave way to ornate jewels and, like the shoes, became fully embellished in shards and beads. – Lizzy Bowring Key Items: Oversized coats / Cropped jackets / Peplum tops ...
Read more >


Alexis Mabille -

DRESSED-UP EASE PARIS:  Alexis Mabille paired casual items and elements, such as jersey sweatshirts or shirts tied around the waist, with decadent taffeta dresses and silk track pants for collection that is perfect for “a woman on the go.” — Marissa Stuart Key Items:  Manipulated shirt dresses / Cut-away, double breasted pant suits / Button-front blouses / Tied white shirts / High-low ...
Read more >


Dries Van Noten -

COUTURAMA Paris: Fall 2014 for Dries Van Noten was a colorful and fresh affair. Signature prints of floral motifs and bright blocks of color were a refreshing and stimulating change for the season. Zips were a key detail on jackets and trousers and oversized outerwear was printed with metallic floral stencils.  Silhouettes were soft, rounded yet fluid – chic with ...
Read more >


Damir Doma -

MODERN CRAFTSMANSHIP Paris: For Fall, Damir Doma took to a slim, paired down and more casual side to his collection. There were soft rounded shoulders, soft pants, casual jackets and an evident lack of closures seen in the concentration on relaxed side ties. The lineup was complete with a group of slim, spliced dresses that bore all the ingenuity and craftsmanship one ...
Read more >


Guy Laroche -

SURFACE INTEREST PARIS:  Surface texture was key to Marcel Marongiu’s military-inspired collection for Guy Laroche. A dynamic contrast was created between the soft mohair dresses and the shiny leather coats resulting in a look that was edgy, yet sophisticated. — Marissa Stuart Key Items:  Multi-tier trumpet skirts / Military-inspired shirt jackets / Cropped trousers / Double-breasted coats / Body-fit knit dresses / ...
Read more >


Christophe Lemaire -

TIMELESS Paris: Christophe Lemaire presented a timeless line-up of sophisticated looks bathed in a neutral palette and featuring rounded silhouettes with an emphasis on layered styling. Exquisite craftsmanship and a keen attention to tailored details made each piece all the more desirable. – Deirdre Pérez Key items: Rounded coats / Tailored denim / Wide leg trousers – long and cropped / Tunic sweaters / Perfect fit sweaters / ...
Read more >


Pascal Millet -

CLEAN + FEMME Paris: Pascal Millet's collection of femme, tailored silhouettes featured elements like peplums, ruffles and marabou feathers. A subtle military influence permeated the collection, while textured sweaters added an element of coziness. An evening-appropriate series of long-sleeved maxi dresses, in sparkly gold or dotted with stars, closed the show. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items:  Structured turtleneck sweater / Ruffled shell / ...
Read more >


Moon Young Hee -

SOFT STRUCTURE Paris: Moon Young Hee softened structured wool silhouettes with drapery and billowy volume. Layering was key, as materials like fluid silk velvet and airy chiffon added a romantic feel to the slouchy, tailored looks. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Sheer button-front shirt / Wool shell / Slouchy, wide leg pants / Draped sheath / Oversized suit / Oversized robe coat Color: Black / ...
Read more >


Cédric Charlier -

REPTILE ILLUSION Paris: Cédric Charlier presented a deceptively simple Fall collection, sticking to basic knit dresses, fluid trousers and oversized coats, allowing his subtle riff on reptile skins, via textured jacquards and ghostly imprinted motifs, to steal the show. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Oversized coats / Knit dresses / Pencil skirts / Embroidered sweatshirts / Hourglass jackets / Fluid trousers Color: Plum / ...
Read more >