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ABOUT STYLESIGHT runway
Runways are a hotbed of new ideas. Stay in the loop with Stylesight’s Daily Chronicles: up-to-the-minute collection reviews; emerging trends, colors, and must-haves; and exclusive glimpses at who, what, where and wear at Fashion Weeks around the world.
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John Galliano - F/W 2013
ARTISTIC DISCIPLINE
Paris: Twisting, shirring and a more modern cut were Bill Gaytten’s main messages for F/W 13, the collection another confident step away from his predecessor’s bombastic style and an effective exploration of the “disciplined silhouette” he described in the show notes. Jackets and outerwear were particularly special, comprised of folded little jackets with nipped waists and wide strap closures
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Maison Rabih Kayrouz - F/W 2013
FAST FORWARD
Paris: For F/W 13 Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz did an about-face from his mannered Spring collection, turning out clothes that were far more punchy and trend-conscious. Ladylike skirts remained important, infused with movement from their carwash pleats and done in punchy pool blues or refined cream, but this time they were paired with modern knit tops with oval sleeves
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Chloé - F/W 2013
FEMME WITHOUT THE FUSS
Paris: Clare Waight Keller has done a lot to revive and hone the Chloé brand in the past few seasons, working on establishing a balance between girly ruffles and more directional structured must-haves. F/W 13 saw that dichotomy come into play more than ever with grown-up, yet sweet pieces that looked serious without losing their innocence. Key
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Runway Flash – Boho Hobo - F/W 2013
Patchworked plaids, oversized jackets and clownish pants are all over the Paris runways for F/W 13. Some tailored looks conjure Charlie Chaplin’s “little tramp”; others, like dresses that seem pasted with discarded posters, brought to mind John Galliano’s famous Dior Couture (S/S 2000), which featured taffeta gowns printed with pages from the Herald Tribune.–Sharon Graubard
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Costume National - F/W 2013
TAILORED ELEGANCE
Paris: One can always expect precise tailoring from a Costume National collection, but this season, it seemed to play an even more important role. Fluidity and movement were at a minimum, making control the offering's key element. Designer Ennio Capasa used the traditional pantsuit as a jumping-off point, then tweaked the details to make it feel fresh. He slashed
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Andrew Gn - F/W 2013
NOUVEAU RICHE
Paris: Andrew Gn looked to the Art Nouveau movement for inspiration for his opulent fall collection. The elegant yet clean lines of the style were an excellent compliment to the rich fabrics and luxe embellishments on display. Gn used several techniques to express the Art Nouveau patterns, including leather and velvet appliqués, contrast trim, cloqué designs, beading, and quilting.
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Kenzo - F/W 2013
RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE
Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have referenced Asia in previous collections for Kenzo. Japanese tigers appeared for S/S 13 and returned for Pre-Fall, but this season, the designers opted for a more luxurious inspiration – the opulent temples of India, Nepal, and China. The theme proved excellent fodder for the label's signature prints. Leon and Lim started out
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Céline - F/W 2013
REFINED RESTRAINT
Paris: Phoebe Philo's yet-again brilliant collection for Céline was defined by restraint, in a variety of respects. Her minimalist aesthetic, with its emphasis on refusing the unnecessary, was the most obvious manifestation of the concept. Clean, A-line skirts and dresses, boxy tops, and simple duster and pea coats were the building blocks of the offering. Embellishments and details were
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Loewe - F/W 2013
EFFORTLESS SLEEK
Paris: While supple second skins have been the fabric of choice this season, leather is in Loewe's DNA and designer Stuart Vevers has a flawlessly modern approach to working with it. Moulded cocoon coats with sleek edges and exposed seams, aviator jackets, and structured sweaters with leather fronts were all highly covetable winter warmers. Contrasted with slinky foulard print
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Jean Paul Gaultier - F/W 2013
LEADING LADY
Paris: It was a case of biker-meets-ballet or maybe leather daddy-meets-diva at Jean Paul Gaultier, where the designer embraced his love of fetish-wear, fur and graceful gowns. On top were biker jackets and moulded, high-neck bustier tops, complete with ribbing, press-stud fastenings (often unfastened at one shoulder), and zippers, while legs were veiled in billowing lengths of sheer chiffon.
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Detail of the Day – Comme des Garçons - F/W 2013
Dimensional roses appeared to be blossoming from Savile Row-type suitings at Comme des Garcons' Fall 2013 collection shown today in Paris. Self fabric was twisted and manipulated in order to produce a lush array of romantic sculpted flowers, feminizing these menswear silhouettes. –Deirdre Pérez
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Vivienne Westwood - F/W 2013
MEDIEVAL MELANGE
Vivienne Westwood always manages to combine ethnic and historical references and make them into something fashionable. For F/W13 the show notes stated: “Influences come from the 4 corners, historical, ethnic, structure and ‘flou’.” The collection was a mélange of sparkling jacquards, tribal prints, folkloric embroidery, intarsia knits and crochets. The Medieval influence was evident with large wool blanket coats,
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Acne Studios - F/W 2013
DECONTEXTUALIZED FASHION
Swedish brand Acne premiered in Paris at the Grand Palais. For this collection Acne sought to make the invisible visible and the unwearable wearable, with a collaboration between artist Katerina Jebb and the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Jonny Johansson, founder and head of design, said, “Art is something I enjoy in my work as well
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Comme des Garçons - F/W 2013
WELL SUITED
Paris: It would be an insult to Rei Kawakubo's genius to describe her brilliant collection as a borrowed-from-the-boys affair. It was much more cerebral than that. Yes, the designer used Savile Row suitings, twisting them into fabric flowers and bows, but the over-the-top proportions made both the embellishments and the garments themselves into a study of silhouette and of
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Junya Watanabe - F/W 2013
PLAYFULLY MENDED
Paris: Junya Watanabe’s biker jackets are a conceptual staple, a component of his collection that inspires a specific anticipation each season. For F/W 13 his interpretation was youthful with a touch of rockabilly flair, centered on a patchworking technique that saw hourglass leather jackets merge with tartan panels to become dresses worn over cropped leggings and platform pumps. Denim
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