THE FEMININE COCOON
Paris: Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen has continued the legendary designer’s tradition of drama and remained faithful to the experimental nature of the label. For Fall her confidently feminine superheroines came clad in frothy ruffles, feathers and fur, their silhouettes exploded into round or flared dresses and skirts. Furry platform moon boots, sculpted metal corset belts and
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SOFT FOCUS
Paris: Junko Shimada’s Fall collection achieved a pleasant relaxed softness, a feminine ease established with blurred patterns, felt textures and loose fits. Voluminous trousers, pleated floor-length skirts and coat dresses were the most notable items on the runway, and each came in a variety of tonal paisley, floral, plaid and leopard. This mix of patterns made the collection feel
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COSSACK AU COURANT
Paris: Fresh off the heels of a breathtaking January couture presentation, Valentino creative directors Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have assembled a thoughtful curation of haute Cossack, without abandoning the youthfully demure aesthetic they have honed over the last three years. The show’s initial passage of black leather felt unexpected from the team that had located
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ATTITUDE ANEW
Paris: Karl Lagerfeld’s seasonal challenge at Chanel is less one of invention and more one of re-interpretation; he is tasked with discerning the manner in which Chanel tweeds, jerseys, tipping, and pearls can find relevance in fashion’s current moment. For F/W 12, Lagerfeld experimented with a youthfully “stacked” silhouette in which pants anchored a myriad of looks. The aforementioned
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AVIAN INFLUENCE
Paris: Although there were plenty of bold graphics this season at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the overall effect seemed toned-down for the colorful designer, with icy blues and lovely ombré encouraging a soothing mood. Stately owls and eagles were the basis of Fall’s prints and graphics, appearing as both abstract and Native American totem-inspired motifs throughout the presentation. Mirrored feather
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FLAT DIMENSION
Paris: This season, Pedro Lourenço employed boxy geometric silhouettes as canvases for creating unique two-dimensional effects. The designer opened the show with a series of rigid color-blocked looks constructed out of curvaceous pieced panels, and juxtaposing matte wool with glossy leather. Severe, oversized coats and jackets had wide, sloping shoulders and knee-length skirts were only half pleated one. Sheer
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UNIFORM OF TOMORROW
Paris: The 80s have been a significant influence this season, and in the hands of newcomer Hakaan Yildirim the era took on a distinctly futuristic tone. Less body-conscious than usual, the Fall collection featured relaxed, boxy tops with quilted sleeves, straight tailored trousers and slim skirts assembled into casual, uniform suiting. Metallic blue and black lamé is where
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COMFORTABLY CHIC
Paris: For her second season at Chloé, creative director Clare Waight Keller's capitalized on the successful elements of her previous Pre-Fall and S/S 12 collections. This meant an offering of chicly slouchy separates, subtly tomboyish, save for the pretty powdery palette and the presence of brushed silk and delicate lace. Things had a definite loungewear influence — wool trousers
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SIMPLE SOPHISTICATE
Paris: Giambattista Valli usually traverses boldly youthful territory full of slashed hemlines and ruffled volume, providing plenty of party wear to his growing fan base. But in a refreshing turn, Valli took a more demure and intellectual track for F/W 12, trying out menswear influences as well as sophisticated dress silhouettes. Dimensional tweeds were given slouchy new life as
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CAPTIVATINGLY CLEVER
Paris: A newcomer to Paris, Sacai’s Japanese designer Chitose Abe hedged her bets for F/W 12, creating intriguing hybrids that combined a handful of trends via innovative construction. Through savvy layering and deconstruction, Abe brought asymmetric layers and ruffled bustles to military overcoats, motorcycle jackets and pinstriped shirtdresses, creating an appealing mix of masculine and feminine. Flirtatious pleated a-line
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