ICEMAN
New York: For his F/W 12 collection NUMBER: Lab designer Luis Fernandez looked to ice climbing to embody Buckminster Fuller’s idea of “ephemeralization”, by which humans transcend natural limitations with technology. Fernandez succeeded by pairing technical accoutrements — actual ice axes, climbing helmets, and headlamps — with clean-cut sportswear. Fernandez’s icemen were gentlemen in weather-treated wools and oiled cottons, that worked as well for blazers and trench coats as they did for sportier looks like silver fleeced-mesh overcoats. Alpaca wool added a dose of true Andean flair and climber legitimacy, as it mimicked active polar fleeces; schoolboy ties and knapsacks did double duty, transposing the excitement of sport and exploration to the mundane workaday world. —Andrew Luecke
Silhouette: Neatly Structured Sport
Color: Navy / Crimson / Charcoal / Beeswax / Silver / Camel
Key Items: Marled wool jacket / Oiled cotton tech jacket / Tech-duffel coats / Varsity blazer
Materials: Weather treated wools and cottons / Oiled cotton / Alpaca / Cashmere / Jersey / Canvas / Neoprene
Print + Pattern: Techno Tartan
Details + Trim: Lobster clasps / Contrasting zippers in athletic white / Piping
Accessories + Footwear: White-soled work shoes / Wraparound sunglasses / Ice axes / Backpacks Ties / Tube scarf / Tote bags
