FISH OR FOUL
Milan: Thom Browne’s latest for Moncler Gamme Blue eschewed nautical clichés, opting instead for an old-fashioned fisherman look ripped from the pages of a children’s storybook — or perhaps a fish sticks box. Oversized foul weather hats lorded over most looks, adding a rainy feel to a collection where Browne offered another take on his longstanding interest in cropped suit coats, trim high-water trousers, and schoolboy shorts. Standout items included rubber shoulder paneled blazers and gingham trousers with button cuffs, as well as abbreviated fireman’s raincoats. True to his inscrutable nature, Browne peppered the show with inexplicable bondage straps and rings that recalled Seditionaries’ famous parachute shirts, but left viewers wondering what they meant. Still, the show offered a robust, fun toy fisherman storyline, complete with a number of staple items that could weather the storms of reality in any man’s closet. —Andrew Luecke
Silhouette: Trim, savvy seaman
Color: Fire engine / Navy blue / Black / White / Dove grey
Key Items: Hooded capes / Waterproof shoulder panel blazers / Robe sweaters / Fireman’s raincoats
Materials: Waterproof rubber / Nylon / Chino / Wool suiting / Nautical rope-style knits
Print + Pattern: Windowpane checks / Gingham / Nautical flag all-over print
Details + Trim: Bondage straps and rings / Waterproof rubber panels / Trademark tricolor trim throughout / Trouser cuff buttons / White piping
Accessories + Footwear: Rubberized loafers / Foul weather fisherman hats / Rope soled penny loafers / Life jacket vests
