A FEMININE TANGLE
London: Michael van der Ham approached feminine deconstruction with a fresh eye this Fall, gaining momentum after significant support from London’s Fashion East and the Fashion Forward program which allowed the emerging designer room to take risks. In a dark and seasonal range of reflective charcoal, navy, olive and deep ruby, van der Ham crafted super slim cropped trousers, drop waist dresses, pencil skirts and blouses from silk jacquard, mixing abstract and traditional patterns in each ensemble. What made these looks daring were the details, from round cutouts revealing motifs beneath to ragged slashes and asymmetric ruffles, an off-kilter jumble of textures as womanly as it was progressive.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Dropped / Slim / Cropped / Layered
Color: Charcoal / Tangerine / Chartreuse / Navy / White / Silver / Black / Metallic ruby / Olive / Bronze / Electric blue
Key Items: Drop waist dresses / Printed anoraks / Trim cropped trousers / Collarless satin overcoats / Pencil skirts / Simple long-sleeved silk tops
Materials: Silk jacquards / Satin / Sheer chiffon / Cashmere / Chenille / Tweeds
Print + Pattern: Squiggle motifs / Fractal paisley / Cloud prints / Abstract dots / Wavy stripes / Scarf prints
Details + Trim: Cutouts / Embroidery / Deconstructed slashes / Ruffle hems / Metal appliqué / Peplums / Gathering / Velvet patches
Accessories + Footwear: Classic leather pumps
