MATERIAL INTELLIGENCE
New York: Mandy Coon is developing her presence on the New York calendar, with S/S 11 at Milk Studios marking her most official presentation after moving on from her work with Camilla Staerk. Similar to her former boss, Coon shows a proclivity for experimental leather work, though this season the effect was tempered by voluminous pleating and floating embellishments meant to mimic diaphanous jellyfish. A curiosity for materials informed each ensemble, evident in twisted burlap and chiffon tanks or tubular padded obi belts. Other aspects of the collection, such as lounge-worthy robe dresses and a black, cream and red palette, seemed to reference a Japanese aesthetic, blending surprisingly well with a group of white Grecian dresses and braided Helen of Troy hair. Creatively inclined, yet restrained enough to remain understandable, Coon’s appeal continues to grow.
