FULL TILT FIFTIES
Paris: Partly responsible for vaulting fashion back to the 80s for awhile, Marc Jacobs turned his attention to the more innocent days of the 50s and 60s for fall, first with his namesake collection and now at Louis Vuitton. The full-skirted hourglass was the key silhouette, appearing in cocktail frocks, day suits and skirts paired with bustier tops, shrunken sweaters or knit tunics. Ranging from full circles to pleated puffs, the skirts came in every fabric imaginable — quilted feather-printed silk, men’s pinstripe suiting, plaid flannel, sweater rib knits, leather and even a fur guipure lace. Coats were either molded into princess silhouettes or cut away in the front to make room for the swinging skirts. At the close of the show, the silhouette expanded into dramatic evening gowns, all fluffed-up, layered, bustled and ready for 50s proms and debutante balls. Similar to the Prada collection this season, the décolletage was a focal point, and to assist in properly showing off the attire, Jacobs employed a bevy of (relatively) buxom babes, such as Elle Macpherson, Lara Stone and a few of Victoria’s Secret’s most famous faces, including new mom Adriana Lima — a good sign that designers are finally making clothes for real women.
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