COLD SHOULDER
Milan: Gianfranco Ferré is a house in transition and current designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron are choosing to look to the future with modern tailoring and sharp cuts inspired by the work of photographer Guy Bourdin. In stark black and white, their collection was graphic and streamlined, focusing on a handful of key items, including asymmetric vests, wrapped miniskirts, sheath dresses and wide leg trousers. Shoulders were accentuated with padding and peaked construction, while back details ran through nearly every look in the form of sliced cutouts or zippers. Although the aggressively angular silhouette worked for longer separates, the presentation as a whole seemed cold and lacked the humor and colorful saturation that makes Bourdin’s imagery so interesting.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Asymmetric / Fitted / Long & lean
Color: White / Black / Tan / Gold / Silver
Key Items: Fitted sheath dresses / Sharp vests / Wide-leg trousers / High-waisted shorts / Sheer blouses / Strapless minidresses / Column gowns
Materials: Raw silk / Snakeskin / Bonded silk / Chiffon / Mesh / Leather
Print + Pattern: Snakeskin
Details + Trim: Snakeskin panels / Pleating / Padding / Zippers / Jagged necklines / Peaked shoulders / Contrast piping / Back details / Exaggerated pockets
Accessories + Footwear: Futuristic sandals / Snakeskin belts / Cuff bracelets / Slim handle bags / Leaf appliqué belts / Wide corset belts
