BOLD BILLOW
New York: Duckie Brown duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver delivered a collection of contradictions, full of meticulously tailored jackets in fine materials like barathea, that sat atop billowing, slouchy trousers in buffalo plaids and tweeds. Suits came in the same proportions, while some tops, like the standout Fair Isle sweater, matched the bottoms, all creating a sartorial conundrum where concepts and artistry were counterbalanced by earthy workshirts, chunky wools, tweeds of all types, and even a hint of lad-ish menace. These items were ideas, but they were most certainly also garments, and wearable streetwise garments at that. Attendees responded to the perplexing proportions by coining on-the-spot titles like “Day-jamas” for the look. Even label designer Cox needed a hyphen to describe his collection, calling it “hiking-evening” — a title that sounds peculiar until one has seen these wondrous juxtapositions themselves. —Andrew Luecke
Silhouette: Billowing or rounded bottoms under elongated tailored tops
Color: Camel / Olive / Black / Steel blue / Granite / Grape / Charcoal /
Key Items: Invisible collar coats / Two pocket workshirts / Herringbone trousers / Wide-leg pleated trousers / Fully-fashioned sweater-knit leggings
Materials: Barathea / Tweed / Wool flannel / Shearling / Suede
Print + Pattern: Faire Isle / Donegal tweed / Herringbone / Basketweave tweed / Tricolor buffalo plaid / Pumpkin / Houndstooth
Details + Trim: Undersize collars / Double-vents / Patch pockets
Accessories + Footwear: Mongolian shearling hats / Suede gloves / Wool turbans / Cap-toe oxfords
