SUEDEHEAD
Paris: Kris Van Assche showed another mainly monochrome, militaristic collection for Dior Homme, though one toughed up by hard mod items, tailoring, and attitude. Van Assche clearly knows his street fashion history, remembering that skinhead looks came directly out of mod culture, and were closer to the Carnaby Street foppery of rockers like The Kinks’ Dave Davies than many of the scenes harder adherents cared to admit. This historically accurate, open ended view, allowed Van Assche to pepper the collection with zeitgeist-y pieces like Nehru jackets, while keeping things tough and true to workwear, using blue twill to make gas station jackets and shodding models in chunky bovver oxfords adorned with red laces. Smart suits, with just a hint of break in the trousers, as well as crombie coats, added sophistication to this collection that was a truly successful reinterpretation of the sharpest, most masculine of youth street styles. —Andrew Luecke
Silhouette: Sharp and heavy
Color: Navy / Cream / Royal blue / Racing red
Key Items: Hooded Macks / Flight jackets / Crombie coats / Double-breasted suits / Nehru jackets
Materials: Calvary twill / Wool suiting / Treated canvas / Cotton knits / Leather
Print + Pattern: Glen plaid / Nautical stripes
Details + Trim: Graphic tailor’s chalk stripes / Pieced constructions / White piping and military style flair
Accessories + Footwear: Wingtip Bovver oxfords with red laces / Bowling bags
