SOPHISTICATED ANDROGYNY
London: Daks designer Sheila McKain-Waid looked to Charlotte Rampling for inspiration for her fall collection. The celebrated actress’s androgynous, sophisticated style was apparent in the roomy trousers, pleated skirts, and sensible dresses that were the offering’s foundations. Outerwear, of course, also played a key role. Trench coats, anoraks, and bal macaans were slightly oversized, giving them a casual, shrugged-on appeal. Daks’s signature camel-based check popped up intermittently, but a vintage-y large-scale floral was the pattern that stood out. Though the collection was mostly made up of traditional tailored pieces, McKain-Waid used metallic leathers and glazes to add a futuristic element that made it all feel current and appealing. The designer is still relatively new at Daks – this is only her fourth season – but she seems to have quickly connected with the house’s history and determined how to make it relevant for today. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Slouchy / Oversized / A-line / Boxy
Color: Anthracite / Camel / Black / Rust / Olive / Rosy red / Buttery yellow / Orange / Silver / Bottle green / Navy / Burgundy / White
Key Items: Slouchy trousers / Pleated skirts / Lacquered cropped shells / Oversized outerwear
Materials: Menswear-inspired wool suitings / Tweed / Fine-gauge jersey / Suede / Metallic leather / Twill / Medium-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Checks / Oversized vintage florals / Geometrics
Details + Trim: Double-breasted closures / Crossover waistbands / Contrast lapels / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Boxy doctor bags / Envelope clutches / Leather and suede gloves / Mid-calf boots / Round-toe pumps / Asymmetrical-strap Mary Janes
