Christopher Raeburn

AIRFIELD
London:
Christopher Raeburn’s love of repurposed vintage military materials remained intact, as he showed a slew of parkas, flight jackets, and windbreakers in semi-see-through parachute silk, but this season the designer offset his thrifty militarism with boyish shorts, tees, and knapsacks, as well as a humorous if slightly grotesque dead animal print that adorned polo shirts and other items. A fine eye for modish tailored cuts helped move standout flight jackets forward, while the designer’s decision to create quilted vests and windbreaker shells from the safety orange lining of flight jackets demanded attention — and inverted expectations of what military-style outerwear could or should be.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Slinky slouch

Color: Granite / Olive / True red / Reflective silver / Safety orange / Cream / Khaki / Bright white

Key Items: Fishtail parkas / Cargo coats / Flight jackets and quilted vests / Hi-gorge blazers / Single breasted Mackintosh / Polos and tees

Materials: Vintage parachute silk / Denim / Cotton poplin / Jersey / Nylon / Canvas

Print + Pattern: Dead-eyed cartoon animals print

Details + Trim: Grid taping / Flight style zipper tabs / Concealed button pockets / Unexpected zip pockets / Taped seams and piping

Accessories + Footwear: Black or white sued desert boots / Jump packs / Flight bags / Round crown field caps / White wristwatches

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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