ACTIVE DISTINCTION
London: Simple, sporty and clean. Those were the watchwords for Antipodium’s first London runway show, a slick and appealing parade of bomber jackets, slim skirts and skinny trousers. These items may be nothing new, but in creative director Geoffrey Finch’s hands they gained distinction through detailing and an icy, mineral palette. Classic bombers were coated in PVC or softened
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SERIOUSLY SURREAL
London: Upon first glance, the most striking aspect of the Fall Moschino Cheap and Chic collection are the interesting and off-beat color combinations. Pastels meeting up with chartreuse and neon yellow, avocado and olive sitting with mustard and bubblegum pink. But an unusual palette was just one technique to further creative director Rossella Jardini’s surrealist 50s theme. Styled with
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BUBBLEGUM DECO
London: Holly Fulton’s prints can appear linear and graphic at first, comprised of modern repeats and mirrored repetition. But upon closer inspection, Fulton slipped in a number of organic surprises for F/W 12; a butterfly cutout layered as a textured halterneck, a striped miniskirt emblazoned with amorphous orchids, and asymmetric palm fronds stretching across a knit top. These natural
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LUXE LOUNGEWEAR
London: Roksanda Ilincic described her F/W 12 inspiration as "weekend or leisure wear, the kind of thing you put on when you're cozy at home," and took the concept to the next level with luxurious interpretations of cozy items like sweats and house dresses. Reworked sweatshirts featured fox-trimmed hoods or silk panels, and further lost any frumpy connotations when
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RAINBOW DWELLERS
London: Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff went literally over the rainbow for F/W 12. Amid growing acceptance of their madcap style and support from famous fans like Tavi Gevinson, who declared the label her favorite last season, the designers let loose with the bright colors and fanciful embellishment they’ve always loved. Luckily, much of the fashion world has also
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ESCAPE IN THE NIGHT
London: For his darkly romantic collection, designer Giles Deacon imagined a damsel frantically escaping a flaming country estate on a cold winter night. The clothes had a Victorian feel to them, especially the black velvet looks — each with a crisp white high neck collar peeking out — that evoked the daily uniform of a strict
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DELUXE DECOUPAGE
London: Michael van der Ham's inspiration — the Golden Age of Hollywood, or more specifically, Veronica Lake and the Ziegfeld Follies — was evident in the luxe fabrics incorporated into his signature collaged constructions. Blousy puff sleeve tops had a glamorous vintage feel, as did slinky off-shoulder silk dresses. A mix of texture and pattern — abstract paint strokes
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HAUTE HIGHLANDS
London: Sarah Burton has triumphed in the face of adversity for the last year and a half, taking the reins at Alexander McQueen upon the passing of the brand’s critically lauded namesake. While she has managed to create the directional, high-drama ready-to-wear that garnered the collection endless press under McQueen himself, re-developing the brand’s diffusion line presented a somewhat
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