Balmain -

GRAPHIC SEVENTIES Paris: After a recent trip to Los Angeles, creative director Olivier Rousteing was enamored by the carefree lifestyle of its citizens. As a result, a strong '70s influence pervaded his latest Cruise collection for Balmain. Graphic Navajo-inspired patterns and vibrant color juxtaposed with stark black-and-white made a bold statement.  – Deirdre Pérez Key Items: Boxy tailored jackets / Updated ponchos / High-waisted flared pants ...
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Antonio Berardi -

BRIGHT + SUMPTUOUS New York: Antonio Berardi looked to the icons of the late '60s and early '70s, incorporating bright color and sumptuous materials, for Cruise 2015. Slim-cut suits with nipped waists and flared pants, mini hemlines and trapeze shapes were drawn directly from the era and given a modern twist. – Deirdre Pérez Key Items: Slim-cut suits / Trapeze dresses + coats / Fit-and-flare ...
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MSGM -

COLOR PLAY Milan: MSGM's Massimo Giorgetti created a vibrant collection featuring exotic prints drawn from Giò Ponti's ceramics, as well as, playful cacti and pineapple graphics. A combination of smooth and rough textures added depth and tactile surface interest. – Deirdre Pérez Key Items: Button-front shirts / Mini skirts / Boyfriend jeans / T-shapes / Fit-and-flare dresses / Shirt dresses / Mini shifts / Windbreakers ...
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Ports 1961 -

CRISP UTILITY Milan: Ports 1961 presented a collection of crisp looks with a modern twist. Cruise 2015 meant utility details, flirty elements in the form of voluminous fit-and-flare dresses and of-the-moment asymmetry. A neutral palette leant a sophisticated touch to fresh silhouettes. – Deirdre Pérez Key Items: Body skimming dresses / Flirty fit-and-flare dresses / Crisp cotton shirts / Jodhpur pants / T-shapes / Tailored ...
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Artisanal Patching

Combinations of different check patterns and heritage wovens have an artisanal feel on shirts, coats and knits, while blocks of different prints create visual interest on tees and crewnecks for S/S 15.
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Saint Laurent -

70's PSYCH Paris: Hedi Slimane delved into a specifc era of rock and roll history this season, pinpointing the look of 70s psych rockers and their unique toughened-up occult bohemianism. Grounded by the brand's signature skinny silhouette, embroidered, fringed and patterned outerwear took center stage, creating a wonderfully textured mood. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Ponchos / Skinny jeans / Leather jackets / Textured suiting / ...
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Paul Smith -

WHAT A TRIP Paris: Spring at Paul Smith was a trippy exploration of bright psychedelic motifs, from rainbow gradients and chevron stripes to marijuana leaf graphics. Slouchy satin jogging pants and knee-length shorts heightened the skater vibe, while Smith's linen tux jackets and beautiful fringe detailing were nods to forward-thinking elegance. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Linen tux jackets / Dip-dyed t-shirts / Jogging pants / ...
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Lanvin -

ELEGANT REALISM Paris: Designer Lucas Ossendrijver translated the idea of suiting to fit the modern world of S/S15, delivering luxury without pretension by carefully crafting undone, feathered hems, visible stitching and pushed up sleeves. Sport and rocker references co-mingled harmoniously throughout, culminating in a series of tailored jackets paired with louche pajama silks, matching sneakers and backpacks. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Long suiting jackets / ...
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AMI -

ACTIVE PUNCH Paris: Punchy, crisp active-meets-urban staples were the focus at AMI this season, ranging from the relaxed utility of jumpsuits and anoraks to the slick attitude of two-tone grids, wide stripes and satin-finish fabrics. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Draped t-shirts / Drawstring shorts / Anoraks / Bomber jackets / Tapered trousers / Crewneck sweatshirts Color: Navy / White / Black / Saffron yellow / ...
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Dior Homme -

NAUTICAL COOL Paris: Kris Van Assche deftly carried a subtle nautical theme throughout his elegant S/S15 Dior Homme presentation via details like toggle closures on suiting and casual striped tops layered atop shirting, all of which managed to make seaside references utterly stripped-down and cool. — Nina Stotler Key Items: Slim suiting / Striped tanks / Rain jackets / Patterned shirting / Relaxed jeans Color: Rich cobalt / ...
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Kris Van Assche -

SPORT MEETS SUIT Paris: Kris Van Assche incorporated sporty influences into his tailored silhouettes, cutting items like tees and bombers in classic shirting fabrics, and adding racing stripes to sleeves. A combo of denim and suitings kept the look casual yet refined.  — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Engineered Fair Isle sweater / Woven tee / Denim suit / Slit hem shorts / Blouson Jacket ...
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Kenzo -

THE CHEERFUL TOURIST Paris: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon took a hyper-stylized tourist jaunt through Paris this season, their muses clad in pastel parkas, transparent sweaters and tapered cycling trousers imbued with a cheerful mood immune to springtime showers.— Nina Stotler Key Items: Parkas / Tapered biker pants / Transparent & textured sweaters / Graphic tanks / Trench coats / Sporty shorts Color: Black / White / ...
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3.1 Phillip Lim -

NEW CLASSICS Paris: Phillip Lim took classic menswear items and gently tweaked them for a modern reinterpretation. Basic plaid or pinstripe shirtings and suitings looked surprisingly fresh, appearing in the form of wrapped jacket silhouettes and zip-front coveralls.  — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Plissé pullover / Long shorts / Coveralls / Wrap jacket Color: Black / White / Grey / Pale khaki / Indigo / Navy ...
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Commes des Garçons -

WAR & PEACE Paris: Military uniforms of 14th century Europe informed Rei Kawakubo's menswear collection. Graphic netting and scattered embroideries provided a delicate contrast to cropped suit silhouettes with details like brass buttons and flap pockets. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Openwork sweater / Pinstripe shorts suit / Military jacket / Latticework jacket Color: Black / White / Grey / Olive / Pink / Navy / Burgundy ...
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Dries Van Noten -

POETIC DANCE Paris: Ballet dancer Rudolph Nureyev inspired Dries Van Noten this season. Second-skin knits and fluid robes combined the feel of dancewear and loungewear, while lustrous silks and intricate embroidery added luxe sensuality. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Rib knit tank / Airy, button-front shirt / High-waisted trousers / Blouson jacket / Silky robe Color: Black / White / Red / Sand / Gold / Burgundy / ...
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