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ABOUT STYLESIGHT runway
Runways are a hotbed of new ideas. Stay in the loop with Stylesight’s Daily Chronicles: up-to-the-minute collection reviews; emerging trends, colors, and must-haves; and exclusive glimpses at who, what, where and wear at Fashion Weeks around the world.
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Bottega Veneta
ARTISTIC LICENSE
New York: Craftsmanship is Tomas Maier's MO. This season his exacting eye explored the artist's canvas, complete with daubs of paint and Rorschach prints. Artistically placed patchwork piecing and delicate fringe decorated smock tops and shift dresses, while hand-woven macramé tops were cropped short and unfinished. The footwear was unique: raffia for the shoes had been bathed in oil and water in order
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Chanel
CREATIVE RECREATION
Singapore: Chanel Cruise is a relaxed affair, a chance for Karl Lagerfeld to play with sportif styling, early '20s Deauville, tomboy silhouettes and poolside ensembles. Lagerfeld contrasted cricket whites, tribal-knit sweatpants and wide-leg jeans with lashings of pearls, crystal shoulder pieces and delicate embroidery. Dotted in between casual and couture were classic Coco highlights including neat bouclé tailoring, two-tone pumps
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Runway Flash – Fold Hold
Soft, bendable materials and folded or rolled styling make new oversized clutches aesthetically fresh and easy to carry. Some styles shown for F/W 13 are simply bent in half, while openings for wrists to rest in and strapped scroll silhouettes thoughtfully update the item. – Whitney Kessler
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Runway Flash – The Stocking Boot
Stocking boot uppers emerge on F/W 13 Paris runways. Thigh-high ultraviolet silk is piercing and luxurious while neutral taupe leather is minimalist and chic. Referencing the 1940s, black satin displays pastel embroidered motifs and transparent peep toes give nod to Film Noir styling. All looks climb over the knee for a seamless finish, hiding under skirt hemlines. – Savannah Todd
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Runway Flash – Little Lamb
The flat, curly fur called Astrakhan (also known as Mongolian lamb, Persian lamb or broadtail) is showing up all over Paris runways for F/W 13, used for coats, separates, dresses or as trim. While black or brown are traditional for this pelt (and are valid this season), the newest versions — whether real or fake — are dyed pearly grey,
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Moncler Gamme Rouge
PAGING DR. ZHIVAGO
Paris: Creative director Giambattista Valli created a winter wonderland for Moncler Gamme Rouge's fall show, complete with a snow-covered runway and live Siberian huskies. In a season that was all about coats, Valli showed some of the most notable versions. He was certainly not stingy with the fur, offering styles that mixed three or four different pelts. There
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Vionnet - F/W 2013
WRAP ARTIST
Paris: Goga Ashkenazi’s work for Vionnet follows the formula of the house founder without sacrificing modern updates, which for F/W 13 meant futurism by way of the Eighties. Wrapping, folding and contrast linings were the primary techniques, resulting in black folded front jackets with peekaboo swatches of mint, wrap skirts with dimensional flaps and even fur sheath dresses patchworked
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Miu Miu - F/W 2013
INFALLIBLE INSTINCT
Paris: Fashion editors began trying to decipher Miuccia Prada's brilliantly confounding Miu Miu collection as soon as the last model left the runway. Was it Hansel and Gretel meets utilitarian chic, or Pippi Longstocking plus sport? The designer herself refused to name a specific inspiration, stating, "I didn't have time to analyze it. It's just instinct and what you
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Detail of the Day — Louis Vuitton - F/W 2013
Marc Jacobs’ boudoir-inspired collection for Louis Vuitton F/W 13 was a sensuous combination of menswear patterns and silhouettes offset by feminine details. Here, the masculine lines of a woolen plaid coat were softened by densely packed sequins at the hem — creating an alluring ombré effect. — Marissa Stuart
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Louis Vuitton - F/W 2013
BOUDIOR SECRETS
Paris: Following last season’s boldly geometric mod presentation, Marc Jacobs decided to take a far quieter approach at Louis Vuitton with looks reminiscent of the boudoir-influenced pieces he showed for his own collection in New York. Low-key glamour and a secretive nature dominated in Paris, the models clad in silky camisole dresses, pajama sets and velvet dressing gowns, some
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Runway Flash – Future Folklore
Paris designers imagine a kind of futuristic folklore, where Pop fairytales like Disney characters and film stills mash-up with ethnic motifs and religious symbols. Trend-right items such as luxe sweatshirts and oversized coats keep it all wearable and desirable. – Sharon Graubard
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Paul & Joe - F/W 2013
BOHO & BAROQUE
Paris: The F/W 13 Paul & Joe collection started out all breezy bohemian, with silk pajama pants, unstructured oversize blazers, cozy cardigans and printed silk blouses, and graduated into flamboyant baroque with gold jacquard tailoring, lace shirts and fabulous frock coats. There was a feeling of Mick and Marianne in both ends of the spectrum: Her over-the-knee suede boots
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Hermès - F/W 2013
A REFINED RIDE
Paris: The Hermès collection today was a picture of insouciant elegance, implementing military touches and hints of the house's equestrian heritage in a subtle, unfussy way. Layers of leather, cashmere and fur made for a deliciously luxurious show, but designer Christophe Lemaire handled these materials with a modern eye and a light touch. Single-ply leather fashioned into gaucho
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Detail of the Day – Valentino - F/W 2013
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative directors of the House of Valentino, created a floral China pattern from white ermine fur appliqués against black latticework, decorating a chic short-sleeved coat for Fall 2013. The design-duo was inspired by Vermeer's Girl With A Pearl Earring. –Deirdre Pérez
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Alexander McQueen - F/W 2013
COUTURE COMMUNION
Paris: Sarah Burton scaled back her F/W 13 presentation for Alexander McQueen to only ten ensembles, but never has the gifted designer done so much with so little room to maneuver. Unrelentingly ornate, the collection was full-scale Queen Elizabeth grandeur with a bit of papal pomp-and-circumstance thrown in for good measure. Burton’s communion gowns came trimmed in ostrich feathers
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