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ABOUT STYLESIGHT runway
Runways are a hotbed of new ideas. Stay in the loop with Stylesight’s Daily Chronicles: up-to-the-minute collection reviews; emerging trends, colors, and must-haves; and exclusive glimpses at who, what, where and wear at Fashion Weeks around the world.
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Valentino - Cruise/Resort 2014
CHARM SCHOOL
New York: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created a new, relaxed and easy collection for resort but done in the Valentino way. There were Military and School uniform looks that blended with sweet feminine gowns, signature to the name. – Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: High waisted full leg pants / Casual pants / Pleated jumpsuit / Double layer tee
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Runway Flash — Flat Tops - Cruise/Resort 14
Eyewear uppers are flattening out for C/R 14, resulting in modern looks with strong browline emphasis. Shields continue to uptrend, while thick, straight upper rims update classic Wayfarer silhouettes.
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Runway Flash – Fully Linen - S/S 2014
Linen proves popular with London designers, as a multitude of head-to-toe ensembles in the warm weather-friendly material show for S/S 14. Matching sets and coveralls look refreshingly youthful while tailored suits and blazers maintain preppy edge.
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Christopher Kane - Cruise/Resort 14
BRAIN TEASER
London: Christopher Kane drew inspiration from technological 3-D imaging, giving his Resort collection a rich and varied lineup from a tailored, sculptural quality to re-creating computer images in Swiss lace, infusing them in to irresistible pieces. – Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: 70’s and 80’s / Body-con / Sleeveless shifts / Sweatshirts / White cotton blouses / Denim jackets / Cocktail
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Sea - Cruise/Resort 2014
URBAN ROMANTIC
New York: A beautiful collection of summer-in-the-city staples featuring easy dresses in gauzy cotton eyelet and a youthful take on tailoring. — Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: Romantic / Cotton, lace & eyelet dresses / Duffle jacket / High-waist tailored shorts / Relaxed blazers / Silk tracksuits / Drop waist dresses / Grandpa shirts / High-waist tulip skirts / Gathered-waist dresses /
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Temperley London - Cruise/Resort 2014
BELLE OF THE BALL
London: A feminine, '50s inspired collection with a sense of occasion. Delicate feminine details, drop-waist ballgowns, lacework, floral embroidery and an emphasis on shades of pink and red. — Lizzy Bowring
Key Items: Drop waist / Structured / Ballgown skirts / Silk blouses / Fitted jacquard knits / Leather jackets / Tiered gowns / Swing coats / Dress coats / Empire
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Cynthia Rowley - Cruise/Resort 2014
UNDERSTATED OPULENCE
New York: Relaxed silhouettes and offbeat layering provided a low-key counterbalance to Cynthia Rowley's luxe fabrics and glittering embellishments. –Joanna Manganaro
Key Items: Oversized tunics / Slim cropped pants / Sequined dresses / Striated knitwear / Illusion-hem skirts
Color: Black / Fuchsia / Citron / Teal / Mulberry / Navy / Ivory
Materials + Trim: Lustrous silks / Engineered knits / Denim
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Runway Flash – Violet - S/S 2014
As menswear designers continue to embrace color, violet emerges as an early contender for one of S/S 14’s most important hues. Shades vary from rich ultra-violet to delicate lavender, the whole range of which can easily substitute for blue.
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Xander Zhou - S/S 2014
SYSTEM OVERLOAD
London: For S/S 14, Xander Zhou seamlessly tied together a mélange of inspiration, nodding to English heritage, gangster, and feminine looks, with active and futuristic components. As his most directional collection yet, Zhou pushes full force into unchartered territory, designing for an technology-crazed, post-apocalyptic future — distorting proportions, mixing old with new materials, and using Facebook, Google, YouTube and system
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Christopher Shannon - S/S 2014
RUNWAY RAVER
London: Complete with colorfully glittered hair, Christopher Shannon brought the rave to the runway for spring, indulging in athletic-style 90s clubwear remade for today. Vinyl dagger shorts, PVC drawstring bomber jackets, bright intarsia sweaters and a femme Liberty floral gone punk made for a fun, streetwise collection of updated pop classics.— Nina Stotler
Key Items: Bomber jackets / Dagger shorts
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Runway Flash — Optic White - S/S 14
Accessories are eye-catching in bright whites on London’s S/S 14 men’s runways. A white belt is a statement when styled with navy garments, and bags with black bandings or compartments showcase modern optic palettes.
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James Long - S/S 2014
FUTURE CYCLIST
London: James Long's S/S 14 presentation was an explosive take on cycling-wear, featuring spliced graffiti print spandex tops, voluminous shorts, techie hoodies, mesh sweaters and paneled leather flight jackets in high-contrast black, white and neon. Accessorized with round mirrored sunglasses and urban sneakers, these pieces were tailor-made for a futuristic Velodrome.— Nina Stotler
Key Items: Voluminous A-line shorts / Fitted
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Matthew Miller - S/S 2014
SKATE CLINIC
London: Matthew Miller successfully experiments with a winning formula, fusing skater boy silhouettes with clean and crisp materials, creating an overall clinical yet adolescent aesthetic. Despite unfinished hems, hoodies, sweatshirts, loose trousers and shorts look more sophisticated than street, in high-tech fabrics and sterile hues. —Kathleen Tso
Key Items: “Untitled” sweatshirt / Matching sets / Neoprene trucker jacket / Relaxed carrot trousers
Color: Optic
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Pringle of Scotland - S/S 2014
KILT DIFFUSION
London: Pringle of Scotland's Massimo Nicosia went to the brand's history for his S/S 14 inspiration, working from the classic Scottish kilt to produce restrained tartan Mackintosh coats, elegant textured walking shorts in an abstract grid texture and graphic intarsia sweaters. Directional pieces like sturdy moto jackets and tab front shorts came in leather, while modern pleating was an
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Burberry Prorsum - S/S 2014
SUNNY SOPHISTICATION
London: Christopher Bailey's latest for Burberry Prorsum was a sunny and sophisticatedly kitschy collection of spring must-haves inspired by the colorful work of David Hockney and British writer Alan Bennett, influences which resulted in slouchy, but sartorial cropped trousers, layered tuxedo-front shirting, lightweight knit pullovers, canvas blazers and rain anoraks in a mix of primaries and soft pastels.— Nina
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