Author Archives: Shannon Davenport


Organic by John Patrick -

SCHOOL OF LUXE It all began with college campus-ready outerwear at Organic's F/W 12 presentation. To his story of diamond-batted flannel anoraks, and vegetable-tanned leather duffle coats, Patrick added touches of overt softness in the form of whimsically printed 1940s dresses, a tiered lace prairie skirt, and a lofty angora v-neck sweater which seemed to be a nod to the varsity ...
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Valentino -

LACE ELATION Paris: Building on the romantic femininity echoed by so many designers this spring, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri's collection managed to maintain the girlish glamour, without an ounce of stuffiness. Inspired by bohemian female artists from history including Deborah Turbeville and Georgia O'Keeffe, a serene folkloric thread ran through the clothes, from exaggerated lace motifs to heavy ...
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Maiyet -

ARTISANAL ASPIRATION Paris: The debut collection of freshly launched line Maiyet had accumulated quite a buzz this season, with a fresh collection of youthful, romantic clothes and a novel production concept to match. The line, which was launched by Paul Van Zyl, a South African former human rights lawyer is fully produced by a network of global artisans, stretching from South ...
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Givenchy -

SOFT EDGE Paris: The most exciting designers are the ones who know when to do an about face and Ricardo Tisci of allover print fame, has done just that for Spring. Solid icy pastels, shimmery blacks and light iridescent sea greens set a vaguely oceanic message down the runways, but the effect was sleeker and sharper than one would normally expect ...
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Kenzo -

LIFE AQUATIC Paris: Masters of New York cool and founders of cutting edge lifestyle boutique Opening Ceremony Humberto Leon and Carol Lim had a lot to prove as newly appointed creative directors of the Japanese brand Kenzo. From the it-kid turnout including Jason Schwartzman to Chloe Sevigny to the clothes themselves which were bold, wearable and athletic-inspired, it looks like the ...
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Christian Dior -

ARCHIVAL ELEGANCE Paris: Fresh off the hullabaloo of John Galliano’s infamous departure from the house of Dior, Bill Gaytten, took the reigns for a safe yet solid Spring collection amidst rumors of a new creative head swirling everyday. Sticking to classic archival Dior was most likely a strategic move, but was also timely, as the 1950s continue to resurface amidst designers ...
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Celine -

MINIMALIST MAGIC Paris: Minimalist master Phoebe Philo hit a perfect note for Spring, evolving her no-frills aesthetic into another innovative yet wearable collection. Stiff sculptural silhouettes echoed a season rife with references to the 1950s and early 60s, with rounded sleeves and peplum-paneled tops feeling very of-the-moment. A clean white palette was a refreshing transition from the print mashup of late, ...
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Balmain -

VIVA LAS VEGAS Paris: Christopher Decarnin’s departure from Balmain earlier this year left quite a hole to fill. Would the brand’s signature tight-fitting shapes, ultrashort hemlines and maximum glitz remain? The answer was yes and no. Twenty-six year old designer Olivier Rousteing kept the signature hemlines, the sparkle and the glove-like fits but he added a slouchy, tailored sophistication and a ...
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Felipe Oliveira Baptista – S/S 2012

MOTO MANIA Paris: Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s girl for Spring was certainly of the bad girl variety, judging by the amount of racy exposed zippers and deconstructed motorcycle jacket motifs than ran throughout. The designer, who has recently taken on a post at French behemoth brand Lacoste, kept the story tight for his namesake line, and convertible, colorblocked details ran amok , ...
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Pedro Lourenço -

ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST Paris: Clean lines, metallic fabrics and sharp angles, all worked together to communicate a clear architectural theme for 21 year old designer Pedro Lourenço’s spring collection. Details and materials were safely on the luxe side, feathers, crisp sculptural leather and shimmery or metallic fabrics all felt well thought out, while the shapes themselves remained wearable and youth-centric even. Tough ...
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Dries Van Noten – S/S 2012

SCENE AND STRUCTURE Paris: Citing the pivotal Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga and up-and-coming photographer James Reeve as inspiration for Spring, Dries Van Noten created a perfect melding of past and present worlds. A stark black and white opening kicked things off but soon the looks began to venture into new territory, literally, as the James Reeves scenic photos were mixed and ...
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Trussardi – S/S 2012

BOY MEETS GIRL Milan: Its definitely not easy to inject life into a hundred year old brand, but Trussardi creative director Umit Benan, fresh on the job has managed to do just that. His training as a menswear designer was clear, as all the looks focused on clean, tailored shapes comprised of slouchy or crisp separates, various combinations of blazers, button ...
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Roberto Cavalli – S/S 2012

GILDED AGE Milan: Over-the-top baroque was the theme for Spring for Roberto Cavalli, and in hammering the point home he left no stone unturned. Cavalli’s collections are usually highly detailed and embellishment heavy but this season he raised the bar with a level of craftsmanship and luxury that was truly stunning. From the shimmering holographic gold looks, to the mirrored baroque ...
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D&G – S/S 2012

FOULARD FAREWELL Milan: Kitschy, girly and statement making, is Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s recipe for success with their playful lower-priced line D&G. Shortly after the show, the duo announced that they are folding the line into the main Dolce & Gabbana house, but they stuck to their formula for one last, playful and colorful hurrah. Each season the D&G girl ...
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No. 21 S/S 2012

  EASY CHIC Milan: Tapping into the tropical trend that has spread like wildfire since the last Resort season, Alessandro Dell'Acqua sent girls down the runway in dresses with nude ladies splashed across the front, a gutsy direction that was countered with a range of prim crisp separates. A cool palette of icy blues and metallics, another trend that has been picking ...
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SS 11 no 21