A GIRLY KIND OF GRUNGE
New York: Hache is a boutique label that goes about its business subtly, but one that women return to season after season for wardrobe building blocks. The Italian brand, founded in 1990, has masculine-feminine, classic but not too basic down pat, and with their American customer base growing, FW 13 marked their New York Fashion Week debut. Citing 90s
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GRAPHICS, GRACE & GEOLOGY
London: Following last season’s self-described “traditional modernist” show, Sass & Bide’s F/W 13 collection was another nudge away from the layered, free-spirited gypsy aesthetic the design duo had long favored. The graphic lines, sparse color palette (black, white and elemental grays punctuated with a searing shade of yellow), foiled knits and general sci-fi vibe was inspired by
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ELEMENTAL GLAMOUR
New York: Marc Jacobs orchestrated one of his most glamorous shows ever, lit with a huge sun that showered intense light on the models and created an ethereal ambiance. Jacobs was inspired by artist Olafur Eliasson’s The Weather Project at the Tate. At first the light reflected only the sparkle and shiny materials, the rest was black, gray and sepia; you
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THE FINER THINGS
New York: Chadwick Bell emerged on the New York fashion scene five seasons ago, straight out of the gate with a confident sense of luxury, catering—not to his young downtown peers—but a sophisticated (and financially endowed) woman who appreciates the tactile delights of silk georgette, ostrich feathers and fox fur. For F/W 13, Bell built on his love of
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BOY MEETS GIRL
New York: We're not sure if Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are yoga devotees, but their latest Elizabeth & James collection was a lesson in Sthira Sukham—strength and ease in equal measure. F/W 13 saw the duo evolve their little sister line closer to their high-end success story The Row, with a concise selection of pared-back, well-put-together essentials that
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IN THE PINK
New York: Giovanna Randall clearly took her Valentine’s Day adjacent show date to heart with an adorable collection packed with pink hues, pretty prints and girly trims. The candy colors and 60s silhouettes were reminiscent of Jackie O and her wardrobe of boxy skirt suits, cocoon coats, ankle-grazing pants and column gowns by Oleg Cassini, Valentino, Christian Dior
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MONSTER MASH
New York: With a new age of eccentric, fun-loving dressers like Grimes and best friends Rita Ora and Cara Delevingne (who opened Scott's show today) taking over our Instagram feeds and fashion magazines, Jeremy Scott's exuberant designs feel more relevant and enticing than ever. Last fall's Bart Simpson knits are still going strong on the streets and the renewed
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A CUT ABOVE
New York: Following last season's career-highlight-worthy reviews, Narciso Rodriguez clearly decided to stick with a good thing for F/W 13. That good thing being a streamlined silhouette, sharply cut and spliced; clean black and white piqued with rich, punchy hues, and an aura of cool, confident sex appeal. Rodriguez's modern take on minimalism steers his brand of luxury
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LEATHER DADDY
New York: Renzo Rosso boosted the brand appeal and collection calibre of Diesel's high end line Black Gold when he appointed Sophia Kokosalaki at the helm. Last season, after six collections, Kokosalaki bid the label adieu, handing the baton to former Phi designer Andreas Melbostad. His Pre-Fall 13 debut with the label demonstrated all the cool codes—sexy biker dressing, strong
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ROCK & ROSE
New York: For her 14th showing in New York, Karen Walker followed in her tradition of musical muses, this season tapping Siouxsie Sioux. The New Zealand-based designer, known for her playful original prints and fondness for retro rock 'n’ roll titled the collection New Rose, inspired by the British punk rocker's "mix of utility and romance." Case in point,
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COOL CLIMATE
New York: Kaelen Haworth's fifth collection featured the kind of easy separates that made you want to take it apart and piece it back together again in a multitude of different ways, matching and clashing prints, fabrics and textures like a game of paper dolls. And while the collection doesn't blow you away with ingenious design or lust-worthy items, it
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WE CAN DO IT
New York: After last season’s homage to 80s club kids, for F/W 13 Marc Jacobs rewound the clock, mining the 40s for his younger Marc by Marc line. There was touch of Amelia Earhart in the full-hipped pegged pants, neat shirts and military touches. The androgynous glamour of Katharine Hepburn was evident in the high-waist slacks, pussy-bow
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NEW ROMANTIC
New York: The structured, retro romanticism of houses such as Nina Ricci, Carven, Rochas and Valentino, which has become so popular of late, has a new cohort in Delpozo. Founded in Spain in 1974, the brand re-launched last year under creative director Josep Font and debuted its first runway collection in New York this season. This incredibly polished collection
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TEXTURED LADY
New York: Since his debut in 2005, Thakoon Panichgul has quietly emerged as a key American fashion player. Granted, he doesn’t enjoy the red-carpet exposure of a Zac Posen or Vera Wang, but he does have the support of Anna Wintour and a strong line-up of retail accounts in his arsenal. Wearable luxury with a girly twist is where
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SUITS YOU
New York: Madcap, deconstructed tailoring with a nod to the Tokyo school of designers Scott Sternberg has often referenced was the order of the day at Band Of Outsiders. There was a whiff of the 80s from the play on power suiting to a square-shouldered dress complete with purple sequin panels that Joan Collins would have pulled off with
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