ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST
Paris: Newcomer label Maiyet is built on the concept of a network of artisans spanning the globe. For their premier Spring showing, a sense of bohemian-inclined craftsmanship was palpable but for their first Fall collection, creative director Gabriella Zanzani took the line in a decidedly more sophisticated direction. Citing the contemporary Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava as a key source
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MEDIEVAL MUSE
Paris: Driving one of the most successful brand revivals of the past few years, designer Guillaume Henry is continuing on his white hot streak, delivering a freshly innovative yet brand-right Fall collection. The French gamine factor was in full effect but the newness Henry brought to the table this season was rooted in religious references. Muddied stained glass shades
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LADIES OF THE NIGHT
London: Like many British designers this season, things went decidedly dark for Christopher Kane. Gone were the spunky neons, lace and elegant origami brocade and in place, Kane showed a characteristically tongue-in-cheek take on the modern day bad girl vamp full of leather, cutouts and blackened animal prints. The color story was simultaneously restrained and statement-making, with
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SECRET GARDEN
London: Erdem Moralioglu changed things up from his classic garden-party ready frocks for a roster of Fall looks that landed a bit more on the dangerous side this time around. A proponent of ultra-femininity, the designer proved that his lace and floral ensembles looked just as right in black latex, rubber and neon color stories as they do in
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FAIRWEATHER FORAY
London: Contemporary fashion has continued to drift further and further away from strict adherance to seasonal codes of sartorial propriety; gone are the days of white being sinful post-Labor Day, boots being seen as impractical in June, and bare legs being covered between September and May. For F/W 12, Kinder Aggugini explored a decidedly lighter side of cold weather
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HERITAGE UNDONE
London: Imported from across the pond to breathe life into Daks, the classic British brand, American designer Sheila McKain-Waid showed a fresh new take on classic English dressing. Re-working the nearly 130 year old brand's classic tartan check in myriad ways, from sophisticated slouchy outerwear to Great Gatsby-inspired slinky velvet numbers, the designer proved there are indeed new ways
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90s NATION
New York: Jeremy Scott got nostalgic for the 90s with a dawn-of-the-internet inspired collection that was as witty, irreverent and playful as ever. Viewing his rave-ready separates through a 1970s via 1990s lens, the clothes were an explosion of club kid favorites from fur and plastic to rainbow stripes and happy faces. While the more avant-garde items like the
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OUTBACK EXPRESS
New York: The Mulleavy sisters have carved out a niche for themselves with collection after collection of dreamy-meets-downtown looks, and this season they continued to build on their fantasy world; in this episode Rosie the Riveter goes exploring in the Australian outback. While the concept may have seemed quirky, the manifestation was altogether wearable, with chunky knit sweaters, work-wear
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BLOCK PARTY
New York: Established minimalist Narciso Rodriguez incorporated a vibrant, if slightly off-beat palette into his volume-infused Fall collection. The looks read as a study on color and proportion, with asymmetrical lines, deconstruction and patchwork-colorblocking, highlighting Rodriquez's most essential point of reference, the female form. A playfully whimsical M.C. Escher-esque pattern was splashed across silk tops and shifts, while the
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POWER PLAY
New York:
For Fall Phillip Lim focused on his core clientele, a new generation of professional ladies with funds to invest on work-appropriate power pieces. This modern view of femininity was manifested in expertly sculpted jackets, statement sweaters and tailored trousers, while a somber palette of black, white and a range of greys led the eye to the clever
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