Author Archives: Sharon Graubard


Thom Browne -

BAUHAUS BALLET New York: 1927 science fiction film Metropolis met 60s Hitchcock heroine at Thom Browne’s Spring 2013 show. Constructivist ballerinas bordered the room, spinning atop hypnosis wheels to spooky music (by composer Krzysztof Penderecki). Browne noted Bauhaus artist Oskar Schlemmer as an influence, which was felt in the models' mechanized movements and the hair-dryer-helmet headgear. Shapes were sculpted, rounded and ...
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John Varvatos -

NEW YORK LOVE LETTER Milan: John Varvatos paid homage to New York City with his latest collection, beginning the show with a magical realism-style animated short portraying a young man’s journey through the City That Never Sleeps. New York’s influence was most apparent in the designer's drab, urbane color palette that featured a slew of neutrals, mostly slate grey and oatmeal. ...
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Frankie Morello -

GLAM PUNK FUNK Milan: Frankie Morello designers Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti seemed to combine two collections in one – a punk-luxe feast and an earthy mountain man jamboree – disparate themes united by glam injections and lots of flair. In this case, literal flair, as the designers showed tuxedo jackets encrusted in punk studs and shining sequins (imagine the Sid ...
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Costume National -

BOHEMIAN DREAMER Milan: Costume National designer Ennio Capasa invoked the spirit of the label’s influential 90s collections to describe this season’s roots-based approach, which saw him march models down the runway clad in deceptively simple, mostly monotone ensembles. Subdued greys and blacks helped mask the complexity of seemingly simple garments, like shearling-lined motorcycle jackets, double-breasted blazers with knitted sleeves, or trench-coat-bomber ...
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