MODERN MILITIA
New York: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s second collection for Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown saw the duo fully find themselves under their new line, as they delivered an edited selection of wearable looks that managed to update traditional styles like fishtail parkas and camouflage jackets. The palette here was minimal and masculine, featuring olive, burgundy and mustard heavily,
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THE SMELL OF FASHION IN THE MORNING
New York: Mark McNairy’s latest collection played on familiar motifs from the designer and raconteur, as he showed garments adorned in his patented daisy-camouflage and smiley faces, as well as an exuberant new clown face allover print. Oxford shirts, varsity jackets and single-breasted trenchcoats came as expected, but sweatpants were so shockingly slim that
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THESE GUYS
New York: Marc Jacobs reinvented familiar territory for himself, digging into his nerd-chic fantasies to deliver schlumpy-cool suits in teacher-style plaid or vintage-style boat stripes, all updated with straight, baggy trousers that evoked 90s kids trying on their dad’s clothes. He also showed utility pants, complete with hammer loops, another nod to 90s boy style, and a variety of
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ACTIVE AMBIGUITY
New York: Downtown fave and known clever kid, Patrik Ervell showed a nuanced F/W 13 collection full of suits, caps and outerwear that blended the best of cool-guy tailoring and hippy-style active elements. A nylon jacquard poncho and forest print parka were standout items, as was Ervell’s overlock jacket that utilized “wool teddy fur” to mimic the high pile
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COLOR AND SHAPE
New York: Last night at Milk Studios, Carlos Campos delivered a solid collection of simple, if inventive, garments where the emphasis was on his hallmark use of color and silhouette. Campos struck a near perfect balance, offsetting bright wines, midnight blues and olive greens—or vino, azul oscuro and verde in his words—with perfect tailoring and clean lines. Though
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MASS APPEAL
New York: For its latest collection, Moncler Grenoble stacked models along a dramatically tiered, mirrored room, creating a virtual monolith of activewear. This presentation combined with an edited, naturalistic color palette to feel massive, like a granite outcropping in the French Alps. The collection dripped with fur, shiny technical nylons, and various quilting styles. Fur gauntlets and retro-stretch ski
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SPORT AND COMPORT
New York: Rising Menswear star Ian Velardi showcased the skills that have recently made him a critics darling and retail hit (Gap collaboration anyone?), presenting a collection of perfectly-executed basics, highlighted by expertly-jumbled preppy styling of the type that comes naturally to the best American designers. Velardi’s signature look included color-blocked sweatpants paired with a blackwatch tuxedo jacket,
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THE WOODSMAN
New York: Billy Reid’s F/W 13 show continued to explore the designer’s interest in non-hackneyed Americana, showing a mix of rough but graceful items that included a number of sly materials and details. Reid himself stated that for this collection he sought “Elegance that has a warmth, yet a street toughness – wearable and functional luxury and a modern
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FLY BOYS
New York: Daisuke Obana’s genius is his ability to immerse himself in his inspirations (sometimes obvious ones), while transforming them into transcendent fashion that is anything but ordinary. This season, Mr. Obana looked to one of history’s favorite women – aviation pioneer and adventurer, Amelia Earhart – to create a show rich with authentic details, rugged pieces, and a
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INTEREST INVERTED
New York: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver delivered an innovative collection that further explored their trademark viewpoint and aesthetic. Crombie coats, slim combat boots and Japanese denim ensured that all looks were-street savvy and a little tough, but it was this duo’s innovative use of fabric blocking that truly defined the collection. Contrasting underarm panels adorned overcoats, while a never-seen-before
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ALL AMERICAN NOIR
New York: Todd Snyder’s third eponymous collection riffed on his favorite form of high-end everyman’s Americana, answering concerns about prosaic designs with nerd-cool brown knits, pony hair and massive fur collars. Black shoes, fedoras, sweaters and leather alerted attendees that Snyder was moving his aesthetic further downtown, while staples like cargo pants and bomber jackets ensured that his
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FUNCTIONAL MAN MEN
New York: At today's DKNY menswear presentation, creative director Garry Martin talked to Stylesight about New York as his constant inspiration for DKNY’s functional and streetwise collection. “I love the Mad Men look for men, I always have”, says Garry. There was a clear 60s vibe with slim-fit two-button suits in “Phantom” mélange stretch wool, styled with cotton
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HIKING CLUB
New York: Micah Cohen’s recent showing featured a distinctly outdoor flavored prep school aesthetic, replete with rugby shirts, patch pocket blazers and corduroy field trousers. Color blocking broke things up and added energy, while track pants provided a sporty touch, and tuxedo trousers were unexpectedly formal. The collection's joyus jumble perfectly captured the “thrown together” genius of prep fashion,
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ENGLISH EASE
New York: Jumpstarting New York Fashion Week an entire week early, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright started things off right with a sophisticated streetwise Men’s F/W 13 collection. There was an elegant ease to the English heritage inspired looks that fused with workwear and street elements in an edited but effortless way. Relaxed and cropped Dickies-inspired trousers paired with
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STREET BOYS
New York: For his recent Marc by Marc Jacobs collection, the designer added a number of surprise influences — like Oriental florals and the break-dancing swagger of golden age hip hop — to his always-welcome nerd-chic ensembles. This season Marc’s man was really a boy, a street savvy one at home in New York or London, but with just
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