Author Archives: Andrew Luecke


Jeremy Scott -

VARSITY LETTERS New York: Jeremy Scott took his provocative riffing to the world of sports at his F/W 14 show, where he turned football tops feminine in high-pile, eyelash knits and shod each model in sporty-punk high-top creepers. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Eyelash football top / Patent leather trouser / Yellow moto jacket / Varsity sweater Color: Nude / White / Canary / Royal blue / ...
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Billy Reid -

SOFT AMERICANA New York: Billy Reid updated his infatuation with fine American classics, adding zigzag stripes and woven foulards to overcoats, while offering a slew of perfectly cut, softly tailored jackets and trousers. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Camel coat / High-pile tartan coat / White jean / Soft blazer / Pleated tartan trouser / Leather bomber / Tunic top / Duffel coat / Red ...
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Highland -

CLIMATE CHANGE New York: Lizzie Owens drew inspiration for the eco movements of her youth to create a technical collection meant to work in a post-climate change world. Owens went to Manitoba to ensure her translucent puffer jackets were authentic and updated climbing pants with tailored, city-ready fits. Authentic accessories like straps-on ice spikes over trekking boots and hemp jewelry added ...
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Tim Coppens -

ACTIVE DUTY New York: Tim Coppens built on his reputation for forward, active-inspired outerwear, while adding contemporary suits and more formal overcoats to the mix. This collection also featured a notable footwear collaboration with Common Projects, as well as oversized scarves and outdoor-ready backpacks. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Hooded tartan overcoat / Quilted puffer / Pieced bomber / Slim suit / Felted wool vest / Pieced ...
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Future Uniforms -

Menswear designers create futuristic military uniforms inspired by sci-fi movies for F/W 14. Color blocking and avant-garde shapes add visual interest to jackets. High-tech materials take this trend in a luxurious direction.
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Matched-up -

Designers worldwide flood runways with matched looks for F/W 14. Sophisticated tailoring and quirky patterns elevate warm-up suits and shirt-and-pant combos for fall.
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Savile Sport -

Designers reinvent active-inspired looks by mixing traditional tailoring with streetwear items. Blazer-bomber hybrids and cropped puffers over suits look novel and edgy, while short-sleeved sweatshirts layered over woven shirts embody the styling of the trend.
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Nostalgia -

Menswear designers take a nostalgic turn to deliver All-American collections for F/W 14. Bowling shirts in dark colors look sophisticated and fresh, while retro stripes and rustic tones update knits and polos.
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Public School

GOTHAM GUYS New York: Native New Yorkers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne followed their recent CFDA/Vogue award with a collection that celebrated New York’s dark, cool mystique. A limited palette of black and white with hints of grey and blue looked elegant, while street elements like tweed moto jackets and watch caps kept things rooted in the gritty urbanism that defines ...
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Robert Geller -

ACTIVATED MOD New York: Robert Geller’s latest was a high-concept mash-up of active elements and mod tailoring. Felted wool elevated bouldering trousers, while boating stripes looked clean on slim blazers and tall mod caps topped off every look. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Boater blazer / Cropped bouldering trouser / Wool vest / Cropped trouser / Striped overcoat Color: Eggplant / Dusky sapphire / ...
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N. Hoolywood -

PROS AND CONS New York: Daisuke Obana, whose influences always manifest as collections of cinematic scope and curatorial specificity, this season found inspiration in Prohibition, America’s failed “Noble Experiment." This period of restriction created organized crime syndicates of tremendous ingenuity and legendary style, both elements of which were apparent in Obana’s loose suits, camel coats and prisoner’s denims. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: ...
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Todd Snyder -

WHO’S THAT? New York: Todd Snyder claimed The Who’s Quadrophenia and Rolling Stone Mick Jagger as influences on his latest collection, icons that shown through in the form of parkas, slim suits and high-shine Chelsea boots. — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Velvet tuxedo jacket / Mod parka / Check intarsia crewneck / Wool moto jacket / Tartan trouser / Tailored sweatpant Color: Golden olive / Moss / ...
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Duckie Brown -

A NEW MANHOOD New York: In this, Duckie Brown’s first collection to feature women’s looks as well as men’s, designers Daniel Silver and Steve Cox, showed gender bending ensembles that artfully played with layers, cut and materials. A typical look saw a felted wool Eisenhower jacket atop a woven shirt, with a silk satin tunic peaking out over slim trousers for ...
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Richard Chai Love -

A CITY MAN New York: Like many of his fellow New York designers, Chai’s latest collection was full of items for the young, urbane men of Gotham. Shearling collar bombers looked fresh, while regatta stripes proved bold enough to carry the collection’s print and pattern needs, and hints of caramel grounded the palette with a classic autumnal look. – Andrew Luecke Key Items: Shearling collar ...
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Nicholas K -

ACTIVE GOTH New York: Nicholas Kunz showed a collection that melded Goth and active elements, making a wearable, chic collection that balanced dark elegance and casual cool perfectly.  — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Patch pocket shirt-jac / Puffer vest / Drop-crotch trouser / Leather strap sweater / Jumpsuit Color: Black / Navy / Granite Materials + Trim: Leather / Denim / Fur / Wool ...
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